A detailed manual for repairing a computer mouse at home.
Here we look at "game mice. How to choose."
Repair of computer mouse A4Tech, x7, Logitech and others (The manufacturer does not matter) is equally suitable for repairing the optical and laser mouse. If the button does not work, the "mouse repair, the button", or "how to repair the optical or laser mouse" does not work.
Repair of a computer mouse A4Tech x7 Logitech and other We will disassemble the example of A4Tech X7, XL-740K, in my opinion it is at the A4Tech the most optimal ratio of consumer properties to the price. I myself am their fan what you wish. They break no more than others, and maybe less often. I will describe the repair of the A4Tech mouse, but this manual will suit the repair of any mouse. Whether it is at least Logitech, Microsoft or even Razer Deathadder 3500 (you think they do not break, I want to upset you, break in lung, and not less often, and maybe more often ( affects a small prevalence)). Computer mouse repair will be produced in a simple at home, using a minimum set of tools for repairing a computer mouse. Having no skills, well, is it the most minimal. Once even without a soldering iron, replacing it with an ordinary screwdriver heated on a gas stove (who has electric, without a soldering iron :-).
Soldering iron, screwdriver, solder, rosin or aspirin, computer mouse, mouse donor
In any modern computer mouse, only mechanics breaks, the electronics will survive us (I do not know why, old computer mice break less rarely, and repairing them easier).
ATTENTION Before repairing pictures, read the text, there are nuances, the second fault occurs more often about it in another article: "The mouse repair, the button does not work," and completely exclusive material here: "How to repair an optical or laser mouse".
1. First of all, we determine the malfunction of the computer mouse. Attention, a prerequisite, the mouse is connected (move to USB port), did not experiment with the drivers, etc.
That is, it will be about the fact that the computer mouse is really broken.
2. The mouse button does not work, misses the cliques repair here: "Mouse repair, the mouse button does not work"
3. The system does not see a computer mouse completely (it is very rare), more often a periodic loss of communication with the computer. Suppose, while playing a shooter, you turn your head that is no, (the character's character, naturally), periodic stopping cursor, spontaneous cursor jumping, plus the mouse button does not work. See here: "Mouse repair does not work." The interaction may disappear at all, and can be repeated periodically.
99 Chances of 100 for the fact that the wiring has fallen and closed with each other (the more cooler, the thinner the wires) passing inside the shirt coming out of the mouse housing. As a rule, at the place of exit and shared, periodically closer among themselves, from gamers, constant work on bending and twist. If your computer mouse has such symptoms, it means that there is no difficult repair lucky.
There is nothing to lose with us, without trepanication, you do not reanimate the mouse. Carefully disassemble the housing of the mouse. Everyone disassembled in different ways, be careful. Plastic clashes are applied (I do not know how to call), something like clips ("click"), or snagged, or broke and flew off, be extremely neat. Not always, the disassembly of the mouse occurs according to obvious logic, more often through the ass, so before applying the effort, think everything was done correctly, the disassembly should not pass with the applied of great effort.
In the photo, A4 XL-740K mouse. I will show everything on its example. This series is very popular, as among gamers so ordinary users. Repair your mouse is similar. The only differences in the disassembly of the mouse, the remaining actions are similar.
Almost all the sole of the mouse is attached to the screws, if they are not unclear, then they are under the legs (on which it slides). Let's up on to them with something sharp (the needle does not fit, the edges drive away from the pillow, then it will be clinging for the rug, not every computer mouse complete there is spare) and remove.
Mouse repair. Under the legs of the screw
After repair, take it back. For A4 it is better to glue the spare.
Screws turned away. Disconnect, top from the sole of the mouse.
Disconnected, see if they turned away, does not hold anything.
Well, we look: if it is disconnected, then lucky, if not, study, somewhere they missed the latches. Disassembled.
We release the labeling wire of the computer mouse, sometimes fixed, or closed with a platform, with buttons.
We unscrew the platform, with the change button, repair the laser mouse
That would not interfere with the upper and lower.
We unscrew the platform
Two types of internal wiring, which I met, located in a shirt.
In early releases stood such
The inflection, it is where the cable came out out, usually disappeared.
Wire cut off not far from bend. Remont-Kompyuternoy_Myshi.
We free the wire. Cut the shirt of the wire, in the place of exit from the mouse, or a little further.
We clean the wires from the laser mouse
I pull for it, barring wiring. If you clean, wiring inside the shirt cut. It's very bad then to solder. Better in barbaric.
This is how the wires inside the shirt look
Most often, the wires inside the shirt look like this, closure and the mouse begins to bite.
We look if one is followed, just solder it, which, by the way, is not so simple. They are there like hairs. Usually they are simply deflated, it means they are simply insulating (for example, a scotch). Cabinet turn inside the mouse (repaired area), but so that he does not interfere. In a new place, we make the inflection, fix the cable. If all the normul, without collecting, trying, turning on. If it did not work, rewrite the wires of the wire, which is where it comes up (it is rewriting or draw: what kind of color where, so do not remember) and stupidly cut off the wire bend, with a reserve of cm 10 from bending. Cut a shirt and solder one wiring. Such a leash inside the computer mouse is becoming more and less.
Cut off the problem area, laid the wires in colors.
Without collecting, trying. ATTENTION TO CONTACT WORKING WORKS.
Skipping of wires should provide contact.
The way to twitch will not go, it is necessary that the current ran. 🙂
I, for example, solder: The tips of the wires burn the lighter to 1 centimeter, then the soldering iron presses the wires to rosin on a little bit (there is no rosin - to the aspirin tablet, the result is sometimes even better), I, I understand, degrease (I'm not strong in this). Further on the soldering iron herale the solder and dip wiring there. If tin is covered (the indispensable condition, tinted with tin), we solder to our places in colors (neatly and quickly, not overheating). It turned out, we try, we collect, play. I did not work, cut the cable and try again. Did not work out? It means that they did not do this (the wires are poorly soldered to the board, or soaked with flowers or incorrectly determined the malfunction).
We throw the mouse and go for a new one.
Here we look at "game mice. How to choose."
I hope the article " Repair of a computer mouse A4Tech, x7, Logitech and others " Or two other repair of computer mice "Mouse repair, the mouse button does not work" and "how to repair an optical or laser mouse", you helped, if you have questions, ask.
Important: After disassembling your device, you lose the warranty on the device. The site is not responsible for your device. If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a certified service center.
1) Two Crusters Screwdrivers Instruction
1) unscrewing two screws shown in the picture below
2) remove the top of the case
3) Patty the top of the case to remove it
4) the top of the hull is removed
5) If you turn the mouse frame, you will see a metal plate. Unscrew it
6) Remove the mouse wheel. Clean from dirt if necessary
7) The mouse wheel consists of two parts
8) unscrewing screw to remove the fee
9) Mouse Disassembly Completed
When assembling the mouse, pay attention to the location of the wire
We clean the mouse and treat A4Tech x7 (XL-750BH). Detailed instructions with pictures. (UPD 14.02.18)
One of the most popular game and universal computer mice A4Tech x7. He has the habit of shifting and give glitches on the wheel. Fortunately, fix this misunderstanding is quite easy and quick.
Koloysiko in our ward can be shifted in two cases. The first, most common, if you believe in the Internet - scroll error. When scrolling a page or another, this page starts to ride, as if you were engaged in the Koloysiko there. Let's call this glitch - crazy scroll glitch. The second option, as can be seen, is less common, but there is no inconvenience from him: when clicking on the wheel (A.K.A. Average mouse button), this click works twice. It will be worthwhile. I met exactly the second, but on the way I will tell you how to get rid of the first.
The instruction was written under the XL-750BH, but under similar models will also be born.
We will need:
- Screwdriver crisp small diameter (Ideal fit screwdrivers from a clock set).
- To correct the first version of the glitch: pliers (preferably with acute ends) and \ or tweezers.
- Several ordinary napkins.
- Catch of cotton sticks.
- Couple toothpicks.
- To begin with, turn off the mouse from the computer. Then, turn it over the top of the belly and find two bolts: one is located at the exit of the wire, the second in the back of the mouse, under the sticker. The owners of the 750s were lucky, we would not have to handitate the glued legs (for the 760th, for the screws there). Remove the bolts. At the same time, the bolt under the sticker may not get out of the "nest", so it is enough just to unscrew the maximum.
Bolts, fastening mouse components.
- For convenience - remove the upper part of the mouse (we will call it "shell"). We subscribe a finger the back of the "shell" and it will be easily served. This action is necessary for a safer removal of the middle part of the case.
Remove the mouse "shell".
- Finally remove the shell. Now neatly separate the lower part (sole) of the mouse from the middle (we will call it the skeleton :)). Special caution must be shown with the side buttons - they cling to the skeleton. But, because We removed the shell, we will be perfectly visible to us how to carefully pull the skeleton. When the skeleton succumbed and began to separate - do not make special efforts, because A wire is attached to the sole (which goes to the computer) and the mount is not the most reliable.
You must be careful with the fastening of the wire to the "Sole" board. Remove this wire is optional.
- UPD 14.02.18. Now we will only be interested in the sole with the mouse components on it. Because We have all the problems in the wheel - they will go. Previously, this item called on just carefully remove the wheel from the left (round) groove, but Michael in the comments to this article pointed to a safer solution. First, it is necessary to unscrew the two screws from the main board (see Sync). Next, carefully lift and remove the fee, without losing two springs (one below the laser, the second on the anti-vibration button). After the board was separated from the housing, the wheel can be easily and safely removed (see Operation in the figure).
Screws that need to be unscrewed for removing the board
After the board was removed - remove the wheel in the direction of the arrow
- After the 4th step, we managed to disassemble the mouse into several components indicated in the photo below. We proceed to the very responsible stage - cleaning. It is because of the accumulated garbage (and this is dust and skin, and the rest of the liver and other interesting finds) in the region of the middle button there is a second version of the glitch with a wheel (excessive click). We clean the wheel itself, the right grooves and the left scrolling mechanism. We wipe the dry cloth of the button (including the ill-fated medium, with which the wheel just sculpted in my case), we carefully clean the rest of the sole and both armor (if you have disassembled, then you need to clean up capital!). I used several conventional napkins to clean, a pair of toothpicks (for cleaning the edges of the case) and a couple of cotton wands.
Fully disassembled mouse. 1 - shell, 2 - skeleton, 3 - sole, 4 - main fee, 5 -Vints, fastening the main design of the mouse, 6 - wheels, 7 - anti-vibration button, its lining and spring, 8 - Spring under the Larez (Do not lose!) , 9 - screws from the main board
- Now let's start correcting or preventing the first glitch - crazy scrolling. Decide for yourself - whether you need it. Always remember the first electrician rule: Works - do not go! On the scroll mechanism (the one on the right of the wheel, in the figure below - number 1) there are four steel clamps. They are needed with small (without fanaticism!) Efforts to press a little stronger to the mechanism itself (but only if you have a glitch of the first type or if you want to make a slightly tougher wheel). You can do this by any tool that is suitable for such a procedure (in most cases, some tweezers will quite fit, pliers are well suited with sharp ends).
Problem Places of Mouse: 1 - Scroll Mechanism, 2 - Medium Button.
- Both problems are solved. You can start assembling the mouse. We put the wheel in place, then (after checking that the anti-vibration button and all the springs in their places!) We put the main board on the sole and screw it. We cover the sole of the skeleton only after reading the step to the end. When the skeleton is attached, it is necessary to be careful at the four points indicated in the photo to this step. 1- Follow the wire to walk around the right mouse button, so that this button and the wire did not interfere with each other. 2. - All the same wire should go from the bottom of the sole fee, well, so simply more Fenshuino. 3. - Remember that the connection of the skeleton and the sole depends on the side buttons, when planting a skeleton - you first start them. four - Get the wire slightly lobby, in order to join the shell, he accidentally did not hit the wires of the wire.
When assembling, we pay attention to these 4 points.
- Insert the shell, screw the bolts.
- Check the operation of the mouse and rejoice that the scrolling is now adequate again, and the wheel clicks exactly as many times as you need.
Newly collected A4Tech XL-750BH
- A4Tech XL-750BH on the official website.
- Repair of XL-760 Wheel, video on YouTube (Russian).
- Options for solving a constantly reviving glitch of crazy scrolling - once and two.
- Comment by the user, thanks to which the number 4 step was improved.
This material is written by the visitor of the site, and for it accrued reward
In the distant 2008 year, the A4Tech X-710F mouse was purchased. Although I don't like games, but I bought the mouse exactly from the X7 series for such reasons:
- Convenient form. Other mouses do not lie in your hand as this, but it is purely subjective.
- Additional side keys that can be reconfigured
- Quiet and smooth scroll wheel
- Sensitive sensor and the ability to switch permissive ability (it is very useful in CAD softe)
There was time and about a year ago she broke the cable at the base of the mouse. This malfunction, I quickly quickly eliminated the shortening of the cable and his dressing. But here there is one trick: because the cable is thin there and consists of 5 separate stranded enamelled wiring, then it's not that simple. To do this, we take a lighter and first burn each of the wiring some of the wiring, then we clean up from the burntable residues of the varnish with rebuilding means and, pinning a little softly flux flux. After that, everything rolls up with a bang. And recently happened another trouble: it became not correct to work the wheel scrolling. An attempt to disassemble and clear the encoder from dust was not crowned with success - the wheel still missed the revolutions. I had to look for a donor from which it would be possible to get such an encoder. Here on the net randomness, a friend gave me a beaten life A4Tech X-718BF. She had a fracture in several places + left and right buttons were very worn. At first I thought to transplant from my mouse buttons and cable, but then I refused from this venture and decided to simply borrow an encoder into my mouse. To disassemble the mouse, it is enough to unscrew 2 screws at the bottom of the mouse (one is hidden in the center under the sticker):
This is what the X-710F fee looks like:
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And so the X-718BF board looks like:
The mouse wheel by the way is very easy to remove the move towards the encoder to the button. We see that they are completely identical, with the exception of the sensor. The X-710F is the ADNS-3060 (permission of the maximum 800 CPI), and on the X-718BF ADNS-3080 (resolution of the maximum 1600 CPI), microcontrollers are used the same ELAN EM78M611E:
To dismantle the encoder, I used a copper braid. I used this:
We impregnate the braid with a liquid flux and remove all tin from the contact pads, after which everything is easily removed. Actually Encoder itself:
The same operation I did in my mouse after which I sealed the spare part from the donor. This is what happened in the end:
Many may argue that why so much troubles and is it not easier to buy a new one? Firstly, the price of a new A4Tech X-7 is not very democratic, in the second plastic on new terrible and also stinks, also new mice of such a model have an oak thick wire, which constantly interferes and sometimes even moves the bear after you removed the hand.
This material is written by the visitor of the site, and for it accrued reward